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From Popina to McDonald’s: Roman fast food before the neon sign

This post is also available in: Polish (polski)

Street bar in Pompeii (AI generated)
Street bar in Pompeii (AI generated)

In Rome, “eating out” was not a luxury but a daily necessity in a big city. Street bars selling ready-made food, described by archaeologists as thermopolia, operated from stone counters with large jars (dolia) set into holes in the surface. Food and drink were served to be eaten on the spot or taken away. The popularity of such places grew out of life in the insulae; in crowded rental blocks, having a private kitchen was often not an option, so a quick meal bought on the street was simply how many people got by. The best evidence comes from Pompeii, where not only the counters and vessels survived, but also frescoes, graffiti, and food remains that let us glimpse a menu from almost two thousand years ago.

Fast food did not originate in the 20th century. That was when its modern business model was born: standardization, fast service, and low prices. White Castle (1921, Wichita) turned food into a system fast, cheap, repeatable and McDonald’s later scaled it up globally. But the idea itself is older: Rome, too, fed the city “at the counter,” without kitchens and without ceremony.

In the ancient Roman world, such “quick-service” places were commonplace. Still, before you call one a thermopolium, it is worth being careful with your terms: ancient authors did not always use that word in one fixed sense, and in Latin texts you are more likely to encounter popina or caupona. “Thermopolium” is largely a convenient label used today when we interpret the archaeological evidence. And that evidence is straightforward: a street bar with ready-made food and drink, a built counter, and large vessels set into it to hold hot dishes. Customers stepped up, chose, paid, and either ate immediately or took their food with them.

Because Rome was not only villas and marble. It was also the insulae; in such cramped housing, a kitchen was far from guaranteed. In that situation, “eating out” stops being a whim and becomes survival logistics. And here we see an interesting reversal compared with today’s image: it was not the wealthy who “went out for expensive meals” in the city center. The rich often ate at home, because they had space and enslaved workers who prepared feasts served in decorated dining halls. The street, the bar, the counter, and the quick meal belonged to those who could not afford domestic comfort.

This is best seen in Pompeii. Pompeii became a “star” not because it was unique, but because disaster preserved it. There, in Regio V, such a “bar” was uncovered and opened to visitors, and the Pompeii Archaeological Park describes it plainly as something like an ancient snack bar. Suddenly, theory turns into a scene. You can see the frescoes that decorated the premises. One suggests ingredients that may have been used in cooking, such as a rooster. Another shows a mythological motif. And yet another pairs the image of a collared dog with something utterly contemporary in spirit: a malicious inscription. On the wall, someone left graffiti with the name Nicias and an insult that can be rendered roughly as “Nicias, shameless shitter.” It works like a time capsule, because it shows that people are still the same: they like to take a jab and leave their mark. Technology and cities change, but the urge to comment does not.

The strongest evidence, however, is what should never have survived and yet did. In places like this, archaeologists find real traces of the menu: bones, shells, fragments of pottery. Finds from this particular Pompeian establishment include duck, pig, goat, and fish bones, as well as snail shells, suggesting a kind of meat and seafood stew. You can picture the counter, the vessels set into stone, and someone serving portions like a modern vendor at a window. Add to that typical items associated with such venues: salted fish, baked cheese, lentils, and spiced wine. In one vessel, a distinctive smell of wine was reportedly still noticeable long after it was uncovered. And in accounts of Roman “delicacies,” there is also the image of dormice roasted in honey, bred in special containers. It sounds like a joke, but that is exactly why it sticks in the mind. Even if someone turns up their nose at the detail, the main point remains: Romans, too, had their “strange menu,” their habits, and their places where people ate quickly.

And that brings us back to the heart of the matter. Fast food is not the invention of the hamburger. It is a city’s response to crowding, poverty, lack of domestic infrastructure, and the need to feed people without ceremony. Logos, scale, and pace have changed; apps and delivery have arrived. But the pattern is the same: step up to the counter, choose what is ready, pay, eat.

Author: Wojciech Bober

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